Think in outfits, not items
Buying five pieces that all go with one another gives you more to wear than buying fifteen that each go with nothing. Three pairs of trousers, five shirts and two jackets that all mix produce thirty combinations, while a closet of one-off purchases produces the same four outfits. Before buying anything, name three things you already own that it will be worn with. If you cannot, leave it on the rack.
A sensible core
Every piece on this list works with every other.
- A navy blazer in mid-weight wool serves as the most useful jacket a man can own.
- A pair of dark, plain denim with no fading or rips dresses up or down.
- A pair of mid-gray wool trousers and a pair of tan or olive chinos cover the rest of the week.
- Two white shirts and two light blue shirts handle anything with a collar.
- A navy or gray crewneck sweater in merino wool layers over all four shirts.
- A few plain T-shirts in white, gray and navy should fit well enough to wear on their own.
- A pair of dark brown leather shoes and a pair of plain white leather sneakers cover the footwear.
- A coat suited to your climate, in navy, charcoal or camel, completes it.
The order of spending
Put the money where the wear is. Shoes, a coat and a blazer are worn hundreds of times and repay quality, so judge them by cost per wear: a three-hundred-dollar pair of shoes worn twice a week for five years costs well under a dollar an outing. T-shirts, socks and underwear are consumables, and mid-priced ones are fine. Set aside ten to fifteen percent of your clothing budget for tailoring, because an inexpensive garment that fits will always look better than an expensive one that does not.
Editing what you own
Twice a year, pull out everything you have not worn in twelve months. Alter it, donate it or sell it. Follow a rule of one in, one out after that. Add color and pattern only once the neutral core is complete, and add them one piece at a time, in a burgundy sweater or a green field jacket, so that each newcomer still has plenty to pair with.
Tip Buy for the life you lead most days of the week. A man who wears a suit twice a year needs one good suit in navy or charcoal, not three.
