Choosing the cut
Words fail at the barber's chair. "Short on the sides" means a quarter inch to one man and an inch and a half to another, which is why two or three photographs, showing the front, the side and the back, settle more than any description. Pick photographs of men whose hair resembles yours in thickness, curl and hairline, because a cut that depends on dense straight hair will not survive on fine wavy hair. The general principle for face shape is balance. A round face gains from height on top and tight sides, a long face from less height and a little more width at the sides, and a square or oval face can wear almost anything.
Talking to the barber
Learn three pieces of vocabulary. Clipper guard numbers are eighths of an inch, so a number two leaves a quarter inch and a number four leaves half an inch. A taper shortens gradually toward the neckline and leaves some length, while a fade goes much shorter, often down to the skin. A tapered neckline grows out more cleanly than one cut square across. Tell the barber how you actually style your hair each morning, and how many minutes you are willing to spend on it. When you get a cut you like, ask what guard numbers and scissor lengths were used, and write them down.
Upkeep between cuts
A shaped cut holds for three to four weeks. Past that it does not look longer, it looks neglected, with the edges around the ears and neck going first. Book the next appointment before you leave the shop. Longer styles can stretch to six or eight weeks. Shampoo every two or three days unless your scalp is oily, and use conditioner on the lengths whenever you shampoo.
Product, in small amounts
Start with a pea-sized dab, warm it between your palms until it disappears, and work it into towel-dried, slightly damp hair from the back of the head forward. Starting at the front is the common mistake, and it leaves a greasy clump at the fringe. Clay and paste give a matte, textured hold for short and medium cuts. Pomade gives shine and a combed finish. Cream gives light control for longer or curly hair. Add more only if the first dab was not enough. Choose fragrance-free where you can.
Note Thinning hair looks fuller cut short and neat than grown long to cover the gaps. If the loss bothers you, see a doctor early, since the proven treatments work better at keeping hair than at restoring it.
