The basic vinaigrette
Put one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice in a jar with half a teaspoon of mustard, a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Add three tablespoons of olive oil, close the lid and shake for ten seconds. The mustard is there as an emulsifier, which holds the oil and vinegar together long enough to coat the leaves. That quantity dresses a salad for four. Taste it on a leaf instead of from a spoon, and adjust: more oil if it is harsh, more acid or salt if it is flat.
From there the variations are simple. A minced shallot, a grated garlic clove, a teaspoon of honey or a spoonful of chopped herbs each makes a different dressing.
A creamy dressing
Stir together a quarter cup of mayonnaise, a quarter cup of plain yogurt or buttermilk, a tablespoon of lemon juice, a small grated garlic clove, a quarter teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper. Add chopped dill, chives or parsley for something close to ranch, or a handful of grated hard cheese and a dash of Worcestershire sauce for something close to Caesar.
Greens and how to dress them
Water is the enemy. Dressing slides off wet leaves and collects in the bottom of the bowl, so spin the greens dry or roll them gently in a clean towel. Use a bowl far larger than the salad seems to need, start with about a tablespoon of dressing for every two large handfuls of greens, and toss with your hands until each leaf barely shines. Tender lettuces wilt within minutes, so dress them as people sit down. Sturdy greens such as kale and cabbage are the exception and improve after 20 minutes in their dressing.
Building a better salad
A good salad has contrast. Aim for something crisp, something rich, something sharp and something a little sweet, such as romaine, toasted nuts, a crumbled salty cheese and sliced apple. Add beans, a boiled egg, leftover chicken or grains and it becomes dinner.
Keeping it
A plain vinaigrette keeps for two weeks in the refrigerator, and about one week once it contains fresh garlic, shallot or herbs. Olive oil turns solid when cold, so take the jar out ten minutes ahead and shake it again.
Tip Make the dressing in the bottom of the salad bowl, pile the greens on top, and toss at the table. It saves a dish and guarantees the salad is not dressed too early.
