Before it goes in
Buy a bird between three and a half and four and a half pounds, which cooks evenly and fits any pan. Reach into the cavity and remove the bag of giblets if there is one. Do not rinse the chicken. Washing does nothing for safety and sprays bacteria around the sink, which is why the USDA advises against it. Pat the bird very dry with paper towels instead, since dry skin is the only kind that crisps.
Salt is the other half of the preparation. Use about three-quarters of a teaspoon of kosher salt per pound, sprinkled over every surface and inside the cavity. If you have the time, salt it the day before and leave it uncovered on a plate in the refrigerator, where the salt works inward and the skin dries further. An hour ahead still helps.
The method
- Heat the oven to 425 degrees with a rack in the middle.
- Set the chicken breast side up in a cast iron skillet, a roasting pan or a rimmed sheet pan, and rub the skin with a tablespoon of oil or soft butter.
- Tuck the wing tips behind the back, and tie the legs together with kitchen twine if you have it.
- Roast for 60 to 75 minutes without basting, since opening the door only cools the oven and wets the skin.
- Check the temperature in the thickest part of the thigh without touching bone, and then in the thickest part of the breast. Both must read at least 165 degrees.
- Move the chicken to a board and let it rest for 15 minutes before carving.
Carving without a fight
Cut through the skin between the leg and the body, bend the leg outward until the joint pops, and cut through the joint. Separate the drumstick from the thigh the same way. Then slice down along one side of the breastbone, follow the rib cage with the knife, and lift each breast off whole before slicing it crosswise. Pour the pan juices over everything.
Keeping it safe
Anything that touched the raw bird, including your hands, the board, the sink handle and the salt container, needs hot soapy water before it touches other food. Refrigerate leftovers within two hours, and use them within three to four days.
Tip Scatter chunks of potato, carrot and onion around the chicken before it goes in. They roast in the drippings and dinner comes out of one pan.


